This list of classic Gazan ingredients is republished from the cookbook The Gaza Kitchen, by Laila El Haddad and Maggie Schmitt.
The latest edition contains 130 authentic Gazan recipes. It's one of our absolute favourite books, because of its on-the-ground research and the way it seamlessly blends food and cultural anthropology.
If you're in New Zealand or Australia, you can purchase it here.
Chickpeas
Many recipes call for this staple legume. Dried chickpeas should be pre-soaked overnight and then boiled until just tender before use. You may also use canned, pre-cooked chickpeas: One 420g can equals about half a cup of dried beans. If using canned chickpeas, strain and rinse several times before using.
Cucumbers
The cucumbers available in Gaza are the small, thin-skinned, and almost seedless Middle Eastern khiyar, sometimes sold in NZ & Australia as Lebanese, Persian, or "mini" cucumbers. Any burpless variety will do.
Cumin
Perhaps more than any other spice, ground cumin characterises Gazan cooking. Cumin should ideally be toasted and ground immediately before use, otherwise the flavour dulls.
Dill
Fresh dill greens and dill seeds are both widely used in Gaza's cuisine. The seeds should be crushed in a mortar and pestle, using strong, circular strokes, in order to release their natural oils. "You'll know when it's enough," Laila's grandmother used to advise. "You can smell them!" Dill seeds can usually be found in Turkish or Polish markets; they are also readily available online.
Garlic
Rare is the Gazan dish that doesn't include garlic – often lots of it! Use fresh garlic, never jarred, pre-minced, or dried.
Green Chilli Peppers
Fundamental to nearly all Gazan recipes, the local variety of green chillis is hot! Jalapeño or serrano peppers make a decent substitute; use hot Italian green peppers if you prefer less bite. Avoid Thai or bird's-eye peppers. Remove the seeds and membranes before using, and be aware of exactly how hot the pepper you're using is; they vary a lot.
Mastic
Also called "Arabian gum," mastic is the resin of a Mediterranean shrub. It is sold in small hard drops (or "pearls") and is used throughout Greece and the Middle East to season and thicken sweets. In Gaza it is widely used to perfume soups, as well as in many sweets.
Nigella Seed
The tiny, slightly bitter black seed of the Nigella sativa flower, often called "black cumin". It is used to flavour breads, cheeses, and pickles. (Bayyāra imports black seed oil and black seed paste directly from Palestine).
Red Chilli Peppers
Used to make filfil mat'hoon or shatta, itself a basic ingredient. These chillies should also be hot, but not brutally so; mild red cayenne or serrano peppers would make a reasonable substitute. When preparing shatta, make sure you chop the peppers rather than using a food processor. Otherwise, the seeds produce a bitter taste.
Red Tahina
This brick-red Gazan variety of tahina is made by roasting sesame seeds in small batches over direct heat (for the more familiar "white" variety, the seeds are steamed). Add a little dark sesame oil to white tahina to achieve a similar effect, or make your own in a high-powered blender! Some health-food stores are now marketing a roasted-sesame tahina; this is very similar to the Gazan variety.
Squash
Several recipes call for koosa, small Middle Eastern squashes with pale skin, sometimes referred to as "grey squash" in Asian and Mexican markets. If this is not available, it is better to substitute yellow summer squash than dark-green zucchini.
Sour Plums
Extremely tart little dried plums, known as arasiya, are traditionally used to lend sourness to broths and stews. As these plums are now scarce, pomegranate molasses – available in Middle Eastern groceries and many supermarkets – is a good substitute. We find that adding prunes and pomegranate molasses to recipes calling for dried plums is ideal: the prunes provide the sweetness, the pomegranate the sourness.
Sumac
No Palestinian pantry is complete without sumac, the dried purplish berry of a wild-growing shrub. In Gaza, both the dried whole berries and the more widely available ground ones are used for their citrusy tang in a wide array of dishes, both as ingredient and condiment.
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About the Author
Laila El-Haddad's writings have appeared in numerous books, newspapers and magazines. Between 2003 to 2007, she reported for Aljazeera English from Gaza, covering key events such as the Israeli Disengagement and the Palestinian elections, and authored a blog about navigating the challenges of life as a Palestinian mother and journalist.
Her groundbreaking appearance on the late Anthony Bourdain's Parts Unknown in 2013 brought a human perspective on Gaza to a global audience. A graduate of Duke University and the Harvard Kennedy School with a focus on political science and public policy, her work often centers around the intersections of food and politics.
El-Haddad was a plaintiff in the lawsuit against President Biden, Secretary of State Blinken, and Secretary of Defense Austin for their failure to prevent and complicity in Israel’s unfolding genocide against her family and the 2.2 million Palestinians in Gaza. She makes her home in Clarksville, MD with her husband and their four children.
In her spare time, she enjoys gardening, hiking, spontaneous chats with taxi drivers in new cities, and the endless discoveries life has to offer.